The Food of Croatia - Wonderful

Before we went to Croatia, I was given the impression that the Food of Croatia was dull. Well, I don’t know whether or not those critics went to entirely different places that we visited, as I cannot speak more highly of the food and produce in this country.
Unfortunately, I am not able to supply shots of all of the food that I will be talking about, but I have found a shot or two that represents at least the restaurant or the town. I will apologise in advance for the quality of a lot of my photography, sometimes it just had to be a half eaten dinner, or an empty plate… obviously eating and drinking got in the way of a good photo.

The food is based on fresh produce, plenty of seafood, scampi, squid etc but white fish was expensive and not available everywhere.
Bread on the table straight away, good selection of bottled waters.
Our first meal was in Trogir. We noticed fairly quickly, that most of the restaurants had the same menu. Italian style, Antipasti, pasta, pizza, grilled sea-food. There was the northern influence of schnitzel, steak, pork and lamb.. They have a very good dried ham in the prosciutto style, grilled vegetables, food prepared freshly and simply. It is really just a matter of picking the restaurant that appeals.
We wandered through the streets and decided on a little place tucked away in an alley.
Laurian and I had Scampi, mine was plain grilled and she had the Scampi Buzara, which is in a tomato cream based sauce and very Croatian.. Very tasty.

Dale and Geoff had Spag Bol both agreed it was very good.
We had the house wine, perfectly acceptable, both White and Red.
Didn’t shoot the food, but was very taken by the little canary in the corner.

Laurian discovered from our hosts at Domus Maritima that an essential ingredient in Croatia cooking was Vegeta.
It is a powdered flavouring probably containing all sorts of things that are not particularly good for you. But, an excellent flavour booster.
If you dip your finger in you get dehydrated vegetables, salty and a touch of spice…We bought some of course. Plus I have brought some home.
For lunch yesterday, I added it to the fried breadcrumbs that I sprinkled on top of our spaghetti. It is yummy.
So we went shopping at the local market to provision for the boat. The fruit and vegetables were superb. Plus we were very taken with the local goats cheese. There was lots of samples for us to try. Of course we bought that as well.

That night we found another alley restaurant. I had Pizza Margherita, I think they use the Buzara sauce, instead of fresh tomatoes and then melted cheese on top, large, very good,. I do like fresh tomatoes though but no complaints…Dale, Lasagne, Laurian Seafood Risotto and Geoff, Steak and Chips

We got complimentary Grappa for the boys and a Banana tasting liqueur for the ladies. A nice end to our meal.
Below our charming waiter…responsible for the free drinks.

Next day Supermarket Shopping…this was interesting, a language that we have no affinity to…labeling that was strange to us…lack of major international brands.
Even buying dips and cream cheese. We ended up with a cottage cheese spread which was nice, but I expected cream cheese.

They have a wonderful little ham you buy in a piece and slice as you need it, Very juicy and sweet.
They have packets of chocolate chip biscuits which were just fabulous.
We also fell on love with these little croutons (pictured below)
They are really good, keep their crispness but not tough, and they are in the shape of a little loaf.
I am going to try and hunt them out here in New Zealand. Best I've had.
We first saw them in Amsterdam in the Sandays Sandwich factory,
Merrin Wessels served them to us, topped with some of the fabulous fillings they have in their sandwiches.
So topped off with a lot of provisions we were ready to set sail.
Our next restaurant call was in Hvar.

We sat outside in the sun Geoff and I ordered Schnitzel and Chips, The veal here is tasty and delicious. Laurian and Dale had Seafood Risotto. It was good but not fab, we like the prices and the local wine, the people watching was fun.

Next was the bay of (wonderfully named) Palmezana, quaintly, there is a fab little bar with two tree houses for the punter to have their drinks and gaze over the lovely little harbour.
They also sport a restaurant and here we dined.
Dale and Laurian had Fish soup and Octopus salad.
The Octopus Salad is a specialty of Croatia and this one was very good. The soup was a little disappointing, just a broth with a bit of fish floating in it BUT I hit the schnitzel again and it was very good accompanied by the most creamy mashed potatoes. Fantastic

The wines we enjoyed the most were from the Peljesac Peninsula, which is opposite Korcula, our next port of call we and also the Plavac Label was amongst our favourites.

Korcula…here I had an excellent Maitai in a bar not far from the Marina, they had added pineapple juice and I have to say that was a winner.
Off to yet another good restaurant, Amphora, Dale and Laurian had grilled sea bass. Very succulent but very small. Geoff went for the beef again and I had small sausages, Kofta style nice and moist with plenty of flavour. With a very tasty tomato sauce accompanied by grilled vegetables…
We lashed out and ordered pancakes, filled with chocolate. Bit decadent but a nice ending to the meal.
Pancakes are big on the dessert menus. Unfortunately they don’t do lemon and sugar only chocolate or strawberry jam and cream.

On the local produce, front look at those tomatoes and they tasted as good as they looked. The Insalata Caprese, put together by Laurian, on board the good ship Viktoria, was dressed with another little gem. Local Olive Oil purchased from a couple of old ladies at a roadside stall. It was excellent nice peppery back taste.
Dubrovnik well I have already waxed lyrical about that beautiful town and it’s food so I won’t bore you again.
So another overnight in Mljet, ate easy on board.
In the morning we were off to Vis. The waterway into this pretty little port was dotted with picturesque villages nestled in the hills. Quite a long sail
Got out the Heineken Geoff had bought a keg of the beer
It is really nice beer.
I even had a second glass which is unusual for me.
Once again the lazy mooring technique, back in and tie on, very simple.
There is even a man walking the plank for you.
Right opposite The Good Ship Viktoria, was the market including the fish market. It is there every day, once again, great produce .

We looked in the Lonely Planet and found a restaurant that we thought would fit the bill.
Restaurant Val. Set on the waterfront, a brisk walk from the Mooring

Set amongst palm trees, very tropical, below a couple of satisfied customers
We were immediately taken with it, and the staff
Our charming waitress.

It was an interesting menu.
I went for the schnitzel again… served with grilled vege


Tender and mouthwatering.
Dale and Laurian Seafood Pasta,

Geoff went for Seafood and Bean pasta. Looked great.

We started with a bowl of mussels, small and sweet, the local ham wrapped around melon and some bread stuffed with sardines

We treated ourselves to profiteroles and we were given dessert wine served with lemon peel to accompany it. Nice touch.

Geoff bought squid from the fish market, we bought lovely peaches and tomatoes plus some more good goats cheese. Off to next port of call Kaprije.


Another lovely island
We anchored there and we waited for the crew of Chinano to arrive.
Geoff cooked the squid it was delicious.
Bit of prep first


I cooked some roasted summer vege. Nice dinner.
Dale had been shopping and had bought T shirts for the crew.
For some reason Geoff’s was a little tight, but nevertheless, he looked very fetching we felt!

Laurian of course always looks great
The crew of Chinano rafted up and they were wearing their Team Shirts
We consumed a few wines into bed, big plans for the next day, We were off to Skradin/Scardona. Same place 2 names.
After an early morning swim, our little flotilla took off, another picturesque journey, and then pulled into the Marina at Skradin.
Below the Good Ship Viktoria at the Marina.
Went ashore and wandered around the little town. Very pretty
Larry had been to Restaurant Skala before and recommended that we all try it.
Good recommendation. It was one of our best meals of the trip.
I had steak with tagliatelle flavoured with truffles.
Excellent the beef they have here, the steak was perfect.
Laurian ordered Octopus Salad and it was the best yet.

The next morning we got up early and off to see the Famous waterfall.
Well worth the visit.

The National Park is very beautiful and peaceful, it’s a beautiful journey on the ferry to get to the waterfall.
It took us about 90 minutes to get around the park.

So after a pleasant visit, we farewelled Chinano.
Our last night on the boat. We spent it at the Skradin Marina. An early night and back to Sibernik, where we got a ride to Trogir…farewelled our crew mates, It has been a wonderful 2 weeks. We had one more night in Trogir. Back to Domus Martima.

Another excellent meal Restaurant Don and Dino, just down one of those alleys.
Dale and I shared a Fava Bean and Cuttlefish dish served on Creamy Polenta
It came in this cute little copper pot over a flame.

which was so good I scraped my plate this clean!

Another Steak meal for me, and Sea Bass for Dale Both good.
So Croatia, you have done us proud and we just loved our stay in your wonderful country.
We toast you “U Zdravlje and Hvala.”

P.S. In the whole two weeks I only saw one Irish Pub and not one Asian restaurant.
And even though I know they're there, not one Golden Arch.
Truly ethnic food.

Croatia Part 4 - This time - Dubrovnik Town of Great Beauty

We sailed off to the island of Mljet, and anchored in the bay of the little town.
This is the entrance to the National Park. Not longer after we were settled 2 Park Rangers came over in their tender. Their job - to make sure everyone pays for the privilege of anchoring in this lovely little bay. 90 Kuna per person but this also got you a ride over the hill to the beautiful salt sea lakes. We thought we would go over in the morning.

Dale enjoying a wine in this lovely bay

So we had to fend for ourselves food wise. There was a restaurant in the bay but we had so many provisions,,,we really needed to use them up.
Laurian made us Caprese Salad. The produce here in Croatia is fabulous and the tomatoes are delicious. We had bought some fresh Mozzarella and we had also bought some local olive oil which was lovely and peppery.

A specialty to Croatia is Vegeta. This is a vegetable stock powder and it is delicious. Probably not really good for you but is salty, tasty and a little spicy. It is a prime ingredient in Croatian cooking. I started to put it into everything. A taste of Croatia.

Our friend Lois (who is currently sailing across the Pacific with her husband Terry, on their way home after 4 years away in their 60' yacht Alpha Crusis) has an excellent recipe for a pasta sauce using canned sardines. I texted her and she sent me the recipe. (Look, don't you love the 21st Century and telecommunications. She was in Panama City on their boat and we were in Mljet on our boat and in seconds we had it.) It was delicious. I won't post it as yet, as it is her creation and I feel I really need her permission. So when they can pick up any communications I will ask her.

In the morning, we swam early had hot drinks and pineapple, decided against the trip to the Salt Lakes and took off for Dubrovnik.
An easy ride, tried the sails, Laurian on the grinder again, but it seems the motor is very necessary.
Made lunch on the run, Egg salad sandwiches -

The vista is very similar to the Sounds in the South Island but instead of New Zealand Bush and not a soul to be seen we got picturesque little villages dotted in the hills.

We knew there was a yacht club in DB, so Dale rang ahead, and told them he was a member of the RNZYS, and asked if we could have a berth. He was invited to come on in.
First though we sailed around the city. It is a medieval walled city. Amazing from the sea.

We spotted 2-3 bars outside the wall, perched on the hill side they looked really interesting.
Big umbrellas, at sea level, people swimming. Could be us, we thought!

So we found the Marina and the man came down and sorted us out a berth for the night. About $NZ100 per night. Not too bad.


Use of toilets... which was a relief to our aft head (that kept on blocking) and there was a lovely little restaurant there.

After settling in we had a quick wine in the cockpit, then set off to town.


It was a taxi ride away about $NZ20 not too bad.
The old town is called Stali Grad. That was our destination.
Well if you haven’t been to Dubrovnik you must put it on your Bucket List. It really is amazing We walked over the Drawbridge into a city within a city.

Of course in the 91-92 war The Serbs and Montenegrins bombed the city. There is a map with the damage to roofs, buildings etc. see below.
But these Croats are not without imagination & hard work. It is fully restored and stunning. I have never been anywhere like it. You think Amalfi Coast, Rome, Carcisson, Other parts of France, Germany etc - forget it we were gobsmacked.
So we wandered around and found the hole in the wall, which led to one of the bars we had seen earlier.
This bar would never happen in NZ or even OZ certainly not the UK, balanced precariously on the edge of rocks, with cute little tables and umbrellas.

We climbed up to a table and the little mountain goat waiter took our order and brought us drinks.
Lovely view looking over to the airport.
As it got darker the lights came on. They would have been necessary as you could have easily fallen over after a few drinks. Isn't that gorgeous?
We moved on and found a great restaurant,

had crumbed mussels and octopus salad
for a shared starter.


I had pork filets, Dale - Salmon Pasta. Geoff and Laurian had seafood Risotto

Very good food, we like the local wine too. Each restaurant has it’s own house wine which is perfectly drinkable. Not too expensive and no hangovers.

We returned to Yacht Club Orsan our home for the next 2 nights.
That night the local rowing club situated just a few metres from our berth were having a big night in. Lots of singing and laughing, more singing and laughing they never stopped I finally got to sleep and was woken again at 3am and still singing and laughing. Very Slavic the songs, they all sounded the same.
Must be what we sound like when we get Sing Star going!

Sunday
One thing I am not too happy about is the Plank. There are excellent mooring systems here in Croatia I think they call them lazy lines or something. You back in and pick up the mooring line walk it to the bow and then tie on the back lines. Then you attach The Plank for “easy for some” access on and off the boat. I have shocking balance, not so bad getting off but getting back on I wimpishly need help.

But there ya go my problem
So we went into Staligrad again after a late breakfast..
Boy we were glad we saw it for the first time last night. Now it was a seething mass of tourist. 3 cruise ships were in and it was a real fight to get across the drawbridge.
We split up, Geoff and Laurian were off to cover almost every square inch of the city, but we were content just to wander around a little,
We stopped for coffee lovely place overlooking one of the Cruise ships in the harbour
Then we found a nice restaurant for pizza. They are huge. I was lacking in appetite so left most of mine, which was a pity, as it was delicious.
Nice place to people watch though. I was interested in this group of people obviously off a Planned trip. They were all wearing green kerchiefs around the neck. I thought at first they were American but I think from listening to them speak we were looking at maybe South American possibly Brazilian.
I was quite taken with them.


Dale and I loved these 3 nuns, unfortunately my camera let me down yet again and this was the best shot. They were quite young nuns and they were intrigued with some of the luxury shops.
Peering in through the windows.
Back to the boat for a well deserved rest and lie down. The Dale and Geoff worked on the blocked toilet. It used to be a common sight on Cajun Moon didn’t really expect to be doing it on Viktoria as well.

Couple of hours later it was fixed much to everyone’s delight.

These two ladies spent almost 3 hours catching little fish I think they were sardines off our marina.
A great technique, they has a ball of dough for bait and just little lines bait throw wait a couple of minutes…pull in, either a fish or an empty hook. Bait, throw, pull in. over and over again. I loved it, they sat there fag in mouth.
A sight not seen often these days
Their catch...don't know how many people they were planning to feed!

Back in the Grad, now much quieter, just how we liked it. During the day, Geoff had found the hole in the wall for the other bar outside.
Actually this one didn’t quite have the charm of the first one...
Wine sold in little plastic bottles. Plastic glasses. Didn't have the lovely string of lights.
They did bring electric candles as it got dark but!
Looking out all the way to Italy about 100 miles away.
We wandered down one of the many restaurant lanes and picked out another Pizzeria.

I was still lacking in appetite and chose the simple Scampi cocktail they spelt it wrong on the menu and they made in wrong. Old tough scampi drowned in Mary Rose Sauce.
Laurian’s choice wasn’t that great either. She has been trying Octopus salad in most restaurants, she has had some beauties but this one was definitely a bit fishy tasting, maybe their turnover wasn’t quite as sharp as some of the other places.
The boys chose well, Dale Lasagna, and Geoff Moussaka or maybe it was the other way around. Anyhow they both enjoyed it.
We met an Irish couple sitting next to us. Started up a conversation and had a few wines with them. Able to talk Rugby etc...That was fun. Got back to the boat about 12.30 am. This time the Rowers were absent. Didn’t think another night of drunken singing would have been a good idea. So another good night was had by all.

Domus Maritma - A jewel in Trogir

Laurian Booked us into this lovely little boutique Hotel that she found on the net
Domus Maritima check here http://www.domus-maritima.com
We had our first 2 nights here and found it delightful .

So we left the boat and they transfered us, first to the Airport.

Geoff and Laurian will dragging their bags off to

1. Budapest tonight

2. Mykynos tomorrow

3. Then London

4. Then finally Bali and home

Then our driver dropped us off at the markets in Trogir...about 1 km from our Hotel...He was in a hurry to go and pick new people up from the aipport. So we dragged our bags after our drop off through the town right back to our first port of here in Croatia

Domus Maritima.

Of course we were too early for our room, but they had the table set up for breakfast, so out came the coffee, orange juice, bread, cheese, ham and lovely scrambled eggs.
Our attendant Sanela, just looked after, all of our needs.
This the entrance off the boardwalk outside of the Marina.
A lovely courtyard with a shady cabana for guests to enjoy. This is where I am currently sitting and writing this right now. Our room is just ready and Dale has taken the bags up while I write.

I ess anyway who has been travelling with me will recognise, the mess below
But what a view!

Apparently we have been given an upgrade to an apartment...that sounds good

This a family run business and it shows. Our hosts are so warm and welcoming. We just love it

Vili our host is the sculptor. Andrea his wife runs the place, ably helped by parents in law
Zoya and her husband (he brings in the fish) and of coursed the lovely Sanela

Below left Andrea with Mum-in law Zoya

And of course we must not forget the lovely Marietta. Their jewel.
So can only give the highest recommendation for good price, surperb surroundings, nice clean rooms, good showers. We would always come back.

So pleased we found you.

Croatia Part Three

Ships Log

We motored, no wind, sunny, but not too warm
We cruised some islands and found an empty bay and anchored
Chinano With Crew Larry, Debbie and Ash Keating joined us. We rafted up. As luck would have it rained, so we went on board their boat to socialise and Blow me down were Welcomed with the signature drink “Chinano” originally concocted by Larry in Tahiti, while with us in Cooks Bay… on yet another yacht… many moons ago. But that’s another story. The drink went down very well and before we knew it, we had consumed their nibbles, our tiny contribution more Chinanos and everyone’s wine.

Dale helping Ash with his camera. There has been a rolling joke on the boat about their posh cameras. Laurian has a D60 Dale is one up on her and has a D80 but Geoff is the king he has a D90.

We had our own wake, reminisced about Mike and compared the stories we both had heard about the funeral “The Event” of the year. One quote “I wasn’t sure if I was at an Award show or a funeral” And so it should be.
That lovely man needed a great send off.
Poor Lauran’s eyes were glazing over…its not easy hearing our stories.
Good thing she is not a real drinker, or she may have drunk till she passed out with boredom.

So after a good night sleep. We took advantage of Chinano’s toaster and we had our first cooked breakfast. Excellent. Bacon Mushrooms Tomatoes, eggs, pretty bloody good.
Swims all round, and set the sails to Palmezana a favourite of Larry’s.

Each on each and others boats!!!

We rafted up and had boat lunch. They have great little baby toast croutons in this country (in fact we saw them in Amsterdam as well, crisp and tasy and a really good size) which we covered with a tasty dip. Laurian made watermelon salad, Debbie brought over salami, olives, Prunes (good move) and cheese. Accompanied by our usual house wine and bread.
Afternoon passed quickly
Laurian - Le Uber Grinder

The water is so deep, you sail really close to land

So we pulled up and anchored in Palmezana Bay for The Tree house Bar

The bar is so cute, the delightful host, has set up seating in the trees, and nice rocking bench, lovely pillows everywhere, for all to lounge.

Of course I am now in the company of blonde models, 3 pretty little things and I think I am more like Elizabeth Taylor, past her peak! But c’est la vie.
So the models and Larry went awalking over the hill and got fresh bread for tomorrow, Geoff fished I think.
Dale and I rested
At sundown we changed and went ashore to the Treehouse Bar and restaurant.

After a couple of good drinks and a couple of free shots we ate in their restaurant.
The food was excellent I had schnitzel and mashed potatoes, they were amongst the best mash I have had. I commented about their excellence to the lady of the house…she pointed to her midriff and said she liked them too much as well. Not good for the waistline.
Drank the house wine, and the dinner bill only came to 100KN per head about $35NZ pretty good value.

Thursday
Ship’s Log
Left anchorage at 8.00 left Chinano and set sail to the south. Sunny, no wind and no sea, motor on, sail up, but that’s for show.
Listening to Johnny Mathis Open Fire Two guitars Destination Korcula Island ETA 15.00

The lighthouses are square really unique.

For us, used to sailing around the South Pacific and New Zealand it’s so odd to pull into a bay and see lovely old stone houses. Boats lazy line mooring all around.

We backed into the ACI Marina, easy peasy and booked there for the night. You pick up a line from the wharf, walk it through to the bow, and then tie 2 stern lines onto the jetty, put out your plank and Bob’s your uncle.I have to mention the plank…I have a mental block on it I need something to hold onto much to everyone’s mirth. I have been across solo a couple of times, but I wobble. Not good.

The approaches to Korcula, is so like Queenstown, the ferry going past could be the Earsnslaw sailing by. The hills are quite barren on the top suggesting snow in the winter.
This a lovely town we had lunch, a wee rest, used the port facilities. Shower. Great for the hair washing. The Shower on the boat, is not as good as a dripping tap, so we enjoyed nice warm water cascading down our backs.

Then into town for Happy Hour Cocktails at Konabar…had good MaitaiFound a restaurant called Amfora Pizzeria. Very good food, again D & K had small grilled whole sea bass. I had kofta with tomato sauce & grilled vege, G had steak and chips. We also had chocolate filled Crepes to share. Very tasty.

Then into town for Happy Hour Cocktails at Konabar…had good MaitaiFound a restaurant called Amfora Pizzeria. Very good food, again D & K had small grilled whole sea bass. I had kofta with tomato sauce & grilled vege, G had steak and chips. We also had chocolate filled Crepes to share. Very tasty.

Our cute waitress above.

Wandered, the city found this amazing bar, up in the turret of the castle.
We climbed up lots of stairs, then a ladder and when we got to the top, Voila… it was a cute little bar.
You ordered your drink The girls shouted out the order and then the bartender put it on a dumb waiter, and up she came.

We were full and tired and a big creamy cocktail didn’t appeal, so back to the boat we went.
Croatia is a very modern country amongst all of the medieval heritage but nevertheless I really expected to see more of these old cars. They are so rare that I had to take the shot.
All very upmarket and European...not too many Japanese cars.

Friday, Laurian and I went the Supermarche for supplies, then walked through the square and found the market. Looked great, we were called over by an old lady tempting us with pieces of cheese, to taste. Just like the old witch in Hansel and Gretel…she had green figs, lovely looking basil, delightful spring onions, we were thrilled but smelt a rat a bit when she wouldn’t cut the cheese in half for us, and then we only asked for 4 figs, she was giving us 10. NO NO we don’t want that many. Gratis, she said and shrugged and stuffed in more.

Then she wrote down the price. 270KN $90Nz I was a bit slow off the mark but eagle eyed Laurian said no too much she threw more stuff in we looked at one another decided to give some of the figs back to lighten the load (and cost). When Laurian picked up the figs all squashy.. The bloody Old crone was ripping us off big time. We just put everything down and walked away. I hope she didn’t put a spell on us..
3 bags of shopping cost only 160KN from the Supermarche. She certainly saw us coming.

So exhausted, from all of that, we had coffee, and our morning was enhanced by 2 beautiful puppies, so cute. Yes there is good in the world, you just look for it.

Back at the boat we feasted on a pastry filled with a kinda cheese cake filling and left the Marina for a bay where we could swim and relax.
Of of course there was mechanical problems again and we were able to take advantage of the local electrician, whilst at the Marina. All paid for by our Charter company. Or it should be.

Oh I forgot to mention Marco Polo was allegedly born here and definitely started his famous journey from here. Well documented. Shirts galore. Dale has one.

Croatia Part Two

Ships Log Sunday
1st Stop Drvenik
Before boarding we had a motley crew
Mr Creosote Geoff (work that out)
Mr Grumpy Dale
Ms Elephant Feet and Hands Laurian
And Ms Le Coff (moi)
Our time at sea seems to have fixed all these problems, marvellous what sea air and sunshine will do
The Marian at Kastella Split
Mr Dale...that sea air works wonders!
1st Mate Laurian tidying up the fenders
As I said in the last post, we had good sailing, Music by Melodie Gardot singing (Somewhere over the rainbow), Wine in hand.
6.5 knots nice breeze, engine off.

The Capitianes are happy
1st Mate making lunch and the Cabin Boy updating the blog.

Arrived at Drvenik pretty little town.

Apparently a nice little restaurant there, but we elected to stay on board and G was on dinner duties, a very nice Spag Bol too.

Early night. Just as well, in the middle of the night the wind got up and eagle- eared Dale heard new sounds, and looked out his porthole, we had swung around and we were very close to the ferry on the wharf. Instant engine starting and boys on deck. A little re-anchoring and Problem solved.

Early start, off to Hvar, plain sailing again, then there it is... the lovely town of Hvar, the Ibiza of Croatia I believe, party town.

Made frittata for lunch, wee rest and into town.
Bit surprised at the size of the dinghy, ‘small’… 2 trips were necessary. Big slop in the harbour, so bit of a challenge getting in and out of the dinghy. A nice man sitting on the bench, helped Laurian and I out, then Dale went back for Geoff…a little interesting for them getting in, as lots of lines were holding boats to shore and a little untangling was needed.

But we made it. Such a pretty town. L G & D have super posh cameras, they take award winning shots, and I take holiday snaps of them. Lots of photo opportunities, lots of camera alleys. Lovely little gardens. The alleys meander, its wonderful. Us from the new world, love these medieval towns, so alien to us.

We found a nice place to sit…Hotel Parc, and had a quick beer there. Gorgeous waiter, very funny, tried to talk us into dinner but a little out of our budget. Geoff once again, tried to get the discount, its not working! He's a trier our Geoff.

We promenaded, then sat had dinner, and people watched.
Bit of a Time warp below

G & I had schnitzel, D & L seafood risotto. Nice, nothing to write home about but OK. We didn’t party, but lots were.

Back to the boat a night cap and to bed.
Michael’s funeral tomorrow, feeling very sad.

Croatia Part One

After the first grappa

The Cabana at Domus Maritima
After the second grappa.

Trogir across to the Old Town...If you squint it could almost be Gulf Harbour!!!

After a big last night at La Rochelle, our start to the boat trip was first….a mad dash to Le Mans for Le TGV. (It seemed that we were so slow to get ready) and then poor Annie our fabulous Chauffeur and Hostess, had to drive like the clappers to get us there…it worked, there was plenty of time.
The French are very efficient and it is very easy to find your coach. The TGV’s are very long and you don’t want to be at the wrong end, as happened to us in Amsterdam.
So, you find your coach number on the electronic board, and there you stay.
Sure enough the train pulls up right there. This time it was easy to find room for the luggage and off to CDG Aerogare.
A few hassles with our tickets but sorted reasonably quickly, and we finally got to our aircraft with only just enough time.
Forgot how many people have to pass through immigration and then security…first class, or not…too bad.
Dale, of course, thinks he is special and tries to get to front of queues leaving me to go around the snake. I suppose someone has to do it and it seems to be me. Dale in his haziness had forgotten to empty his water bottle….and there was no receptacle for liquids, so he was getting pretty stressed by the time we found our gate. We made it.
Flight to Zagreb about 1 hour 50, they served a light meal and wine etc. Not too bad. Off and through Customs and change money. Kuna is the currency there is some Euro use but most like the local dolla!
Hey found a white elephant… There is a Diners Club Lounge in Zagreb. I didn’t think anyone used Diners anymore. I was going to take a shot, but by the time I had been to the toilet, changed money etc… my travelling companion was getting grumpier by the minute. Not helped I think by the large amount of wine he had consumed with Brian the previous night(more about that in another post).
So I left that and we went to board.
It was sunny and warm only a 30 minutes fight to Split and a nice Taxi Driver and finally Domus Maritima, our little hotel in Trogir.
n.b. had my first stinky garlic breath and BO during this trip, but there has been no more thank God.
Laurian and Geoff greeted us. She had organised the accommodation and we are much pleased. Right on the waterfront which is a Marina, 100 metre walk to the bridge and straight into the old town. So pretty. Full of restaurants and bars all in meandering streets, just one charming alley after another, you can see how people got lost in the old days. A Maze.
Our hotel had a lovely Cabana, for the guests to utilize, so we unpacked and joined Geoff & Laurian for a nice cold beer, whilst we set out our plan for the night.
We wandered into town, most places have their menus outside. Same food everywhere. Italian based.
Laurian and I had scampi and the boys Spag Bol., all washed down with House rough red. Even though we were stuffed we drank another bottle of red in the cabana before retiring. I was having mad dreams and woke at 1am took a sleeping pill and slept thru till 7.30.Of course now I have Le Coff and it is driving me and everyone else mad.
Well we may have lost Mr Grumpy as Mary H said “he has smelt the sea and it worked.” Hooray.
He got early and got us a hire car.
We had a nice little breakfast, juice, ham cheese and bread, scrambled eggs, coffee, all for 7E each not bad.
So we drove into Split, like most European cities, great mixture of old and new. In this case very old. Charming. The driving was interesting from mon mari…this developed a very front seat, back street driver (moi). It was scary. I gasped and complained a lot as we narrowly escaped hitting parked vehicles on my side of the car in fact the wing mirror did nab one.
Poor G & L, would have been rolling their eyes in wonderment at this nagging slattern, if they were able to keep them open, but I think they were tightly closed from sheer fright. But we made it.
Had lunch, salad, fresh but not brilliant.
Found the VIP Vodafone shop and got me a pre-paid Vodem stick for local use.
So back to Hotel, got the emails, changed, then joined the others for a wine in the Cabana, before dining.
Went to a restaurant that had taken our fancy the night before. Got a sweet little waiter, G always trying the get a discount. Waiter a little confused but laughing. Food was good. I had Pizza, D lasagne. L Risotto and G steak and frites. All enjoyed our food. We finally got a freebie, the staff asked if we would move to fit in some other people and recompensed us with Grappa for the boys and some kinda banana liqueur for the ladies.
After the 2nd Grappa it was home time. Ladies went straight to bed. Chaps The Cabana. And it is just as well they did. As they sat there, some pissed men arrived and one was having difficulties…he fell. Old Sir Galahad Geoff went to help and picked him up and helped him onto his boat.
According to Dale the guy was a very pissed German who was obviously gay and was trying to procure G onto the boat, full of other mad, gay, Czech people…their’s was a dastardly plan to sail off with Geoff. But G escaped and then Dale went to bed.
This is the story I was told by Dale on his very loud return to our room.
In the morning I gathered, that the only true bit , was the German was pissed and fell over and G assisted.
But Geoff did stay up and get ensconced with 2 spies 1 UK and 1 French.
Yeah right!!! They talked till 3am.
Do we really leave these two together for too long?
Saturday morning
Boys unwell - earlyish start, market shopping for girls, and take the baggage to the boat for the boys. We got lots of lovely fruit and vege. Then Supermarche. Interestingly enough Croatia is not part of the EU, so there is not a lot of recognisable products, as you would get in France etc.
Took us a bit of time to buy the goods we needed. We did well.
Back to the boat, had a beer, so hot. Meanwhile the storm clouds were gathering, not to be deterred, the boys were releasing the lines when one of the Charter people came down. “Stop you must not go out. Big storm coming.”
It had been so sunny and hot just 30 minutes previously. So reluctantly
They tied up again. Just in time. It blew big time.
Good news, was it gave us time to find out problems on the boat. There were a few. Battery rapidly draining. Shore power not working, couldn’t get electric head to flush…couldn’t get oven to work, no matches, just a few things, but fairly important. The Charter people are very helpful unlike “The Moorings” in Tonga and our problems were all fixed. So it was lucky, we could first, have been stuck in major storm and second, with fairly important parts not operating.
So gave us time to catch up with Larry, he, with Debbie and Ashley have arrived for their summer sojourn, on their boat kept permanently here, in Split Kastella Marina. It was wine and LK time. Lots of good info.
Had steak and vege dinner then bed.
It was really raining hard, we thought we might even be stuck for several days.
Morning came, rain went, sun came out. It’s gorgeous. We shopped for extras that we had forgotten the day before, and back to boat, stowed and off we went. A great 16 knot breeze, eased sheets, gently sailing off to who knows where, wine in hand.
Pretty good, so farBy the way Dale has the language sussed.

Thank you - Hvala pronuced Gwala...Dale Koala so there ya go. Never have any problems in a strange and foreign land.

Amsterdam, Our last Days

Saturday here in our Place de Domicile!!!

John and I have commandeered the table for our computers

Waking up in our lovely room

Many a wine has been drunk in this lovely lounge assigned to us.

We have learnt very early in the piece, that Dale’s suitcase, that we bought in Chile, a few years ago, is not satisfactory. Just had the handle for pulling fixed in New Zealand, before we left, and it is already broken again, in transit
It’s heavy and with the sore ribs not making life easy. Thank God for Mr McCready and his gym work…he carried the thing, all the way up our steep 4 flights of stairs.

But a lovely surprise at the bottom of this staircase, this gorgeous stained glass window. Something to admire while you prepare to climb.

So we went to buy a new one at V & D Store. Managed to pick up a very smart Delsey Red, reasonable price on sale of course.
Then we bought deli lunch from the same department store. Great selection of salads and bread. Along with cheeses, a fine feast was had.
Cees came to join us, he had been in New York. The plan for the afternoon was for Wessel and Esther to take us all, on the canal on their boat.
Wessel has become Tour Guide Extraordinaire. One day factory tour, next the Canal. It a stunning way to see the City, Of course there are commercial boats but so much nicer to go private.

Cees and John

Wessels Guide Extraordinaire

Elise with Baby Elise

Can you believe this garbage unusual Amsterdam is a clean city

A barge and if I'm not mistaken my finger

Esther and her girls

These 3 barges are a playground for little kids.

Matching boats

Not tulips but geraniums on show

This was a wedding taking place on the barge with a bubble machine...(added extra!!!)

Back of the flower markets

Leaning houses of Amsterdam

Some clown tipped the toilet into the canal. NICE!

Back to the house cups of tea in Lise’s living room

Sena Wessel and Esther’s eldest daughter is a very talented little girl, she draws she dances and she play the piano. Only 8 years old. JT teaching her some tips.

Then up to dress for dinner.
We were very privileged to be taken by Cees and Elise to The Hotel Okura, to dine in their 1 star Michelin Restaurant Yamazto.
We had a 8 course Degustation Menu
It was divine
Plate after plate of beautifully prepared food was delivered to the table.
Lots of tiny morsels. So much work.
First course 6 different tastings
Abalone-Shrimp Sushi - Daikon Radish wrapped in Herring - Deep fried re mullet -

Shabu shabu sirloin wrapped around Chinese Broccoli
Eel
Then Green Pea soup with white asparagus and Tofu pudding
Sashimi, Tempura lobster, Sashimi, and so on

Dessert Green Tea Ice-cream, little raspberry things

We drank Champagne cocktail, white wine and sushi
Our host insisted on paying, we all feebly offered to pay our share but must admit on our reasonably tight budget, it was a relief to be looked after.
On reflection, as wonderful as the food was, we were disappointed in the service,

not as effortless as I would have expected.

Jt continually asking for her water glass to be filled. A long time to order.

Few little things you would expect to happen automatically. Mmmm.
A wonderful day… leaving tomorrow Quelle Domage.

Took some more shots of our residence.

The main house on the left our apartment on the right

Wessels and Esther live in here at the back of the garden

The Wessels girls Over to say farewell

Cees and Wessel kindly chauffeured us and our baggage to Amsterdam Central

We were so sad to leave. All of the family have been so generous to the four of us.

Our final look at Amsterdam...the station

We were very taken with the guard. Loved the outfit. I want that hat…might look a bit Peter Sellers, but he was helpful

The station, with me and the baggage.

Our train

There was a slight panic when the train arrived, we were standing where we were told by the guard, but the train came in with the carriages round the wrong way. Everyone rushing around from end to end, By the time we got to our carriage, most of the luggage spaces had been taken up.
All a bit tight really

This caused a little stress, the sore ribs were tested with the lifting of he suitcases, BUT on the bright side at least we didn’t still have the big blue one!!! C’est difficile…mais, when there is a will, there’s a way.
And so we settled in for our 4 hour journey to Paris “The City of Lights.”
Through industrial Holland, Belgium, into the French countryside lovely green and orderly, me listening to my Collins French Phrase Book. Dale to music. All very easy really.

Great Expectations

Tourists in Amsterdam, Starry Starry Nights

The sun comes and goes but it hasn't got much power in it.

So many delightful sights to see. I just love these Music boxes. The owner stands around shaking his money box, in time to the music. Of course the Music is bizarre. Mixture of old circus and Abba!!!

Just can't help snapping the canals...so pretty

Our first Tram ride about to happen. Unfortunately, I farted about taking the photo and we missed the Tram, had to take the next one. There ya Go. Yes, I did give her a coin to be my model.

Dam Square, the clock tower on the Palace

Part of the Square, unfortunately under construction, hard to get a shot without fencing and junk.

Fab buildings though.

The Palace

A trip through the Flower Markets is a must, so gorgeous. These sweetpeas were so fragile and fragrant
So many stalls

Tulips from Amsterdam

The souvenirs for the girls...Clogs and Windmills

Hi John, Coffee?

Our appointment for the afternoon, was to go on a tour at the Sandwich Factory, Sandays run and owned by Elise's family. They make 10,000 sandwiches a day, for airports, schools, businesses etc.

It is an amazingly run factory. A selection of their fillings, were prepared on Croutons, for our lunch. The quality is superb. Bit slow taking the shot. The gannets had been in already. But gives you an idea.

One needs to wear these hats for hygiene.

You may think we look silly. But take a look at this.

John it seems, is not a hat person.

We haven't laughed so much for ages. Back home, to rest up for our next event.

So we were off to see "The Starry Nights" Exhibtion at the Van Gogh Museum.
Apparently this expo oringinated in New York and will be travelling the world.
First up, just walked 2 doors down to Red, for dinner. A great concept. They only serve Steak or Lobster. Of course I had Surf and Turf. It came with the chips the Dutch and Belgians are famous for, served in a paper cone with Mayo. Yum
Nice view out onto the bridge.

We walked to the Van Gogh museum. Enroute we passed the Rijksmuseum, here they house the Rembrandts...Once again a builing under construction. Has been for years and will be for years. Only one wing is open.

So we get to Vincent's Museum, by the way this is 7.30 at night. Dusk and Dark not until after 10pm.

Elise got special passes for us.

To commemorate the Starry Nights exhibition the local Pub made a special drink. No... we didn't have one, but a nice concept nevertheless.

It was a Grand night. We finished it off over a few more wines. Can't get over how none of us have hangovers. We certainly tried. It must be the Chilean Wines.

We feeeeel GOOD.